Phoebe Philo silently left Celine, the brand she reshaped 10 years ago.
Vanessa Friedman on NYT wrote:
“At a time when women are increasingly not just finding their voice but using it, demanding parity and flexing their power, Céline consistently gave them something to wear — or at least to aspire to. Ms. Philo was interested not in what would attract the male gaze, but the female gaze (I can’t tell you how many shows I left with male colleagues who were shaking their heads and saying, “I just don’t get it,” while all the women in the audience were making fantasy shopping lists). And even more important: the grown-up female gaze. And in her clothes — deep pile, no-nonsense, swaddling, streamlined — many of them recognized themselves.”
She made a the most powerful, silent revolution ever. Gentle and self-aware. Unapologizing and unflattering. Authentic.
Stella McCartney, who worked alongside Philo at Chloé, founded her eponymous fur and leather free, sustainable brand in 2001 thanks to a joint venture with Domenico De Sole and Tom Ford Gucci Group.
She’s been celebrated for her comfort-chic-edgy shapes by unconventional women.
Very likely she will split from Kering soon.
Strong women, this is what fashion desperately needs.