Here we are. We happily survived another round of Cruise collection shows around the world.
Guests have been invited to experience the Wild West (with a touch of chicness), the wild NY ’70s (with a touch of sport), the cool Japan (with a bit of tradition), the Parisian meets Parthenon (inspired by Dolce and Gabbana?), the icy Milano (with a “feathered” attitude and the hottest Florence treasures (with a sort of creator-demiurge-Medici syndrome).
The Brand that are still attracting interest and curiosity are Dior and Valentino because of the new path the twin designers Chiuri and Piccioli took.
Dior is exciting because Maria Grazia Chiuri is looking for a new language and her research attracts interest and attention.
Valentino is continuing its route with a more rock style, athleisure touch that intrigues customers and raises the focus on the point of view of the now single designer Pierpaolo Piccioli.
The rest of the collections seemed to be inspired by the “hamster on a wheel” trap.
Collections that always re-elaborate the same mood, the same mix, the same colors, the same materials.
They are becoming boring. The designers create avant-garde or freak or ugly-chic styles that only communicate a lack of creativity. A lack of fashion relevance.
Which are the critical touch points?
1 The Collections. Gucci showed 115 looks, Vuitton 85 only for women. Large collections made of clothes that very likely will never get to the stores. Same for the accessories. An overload of images and products that will never be digested on time. Like a seitan steak.
2 The “Mine is Bigger than yours” competition. Vuitton goes to Japan (historically the first market for the Brand)? Then Gucci must go to the Acropolis…ehm no…so it’s the Renaissance! Gioconda versus Madonna di Raffaello. Then? What’s next? A show on the Space Shuttle, probably.
3 The Locations. Everything about Fashion started in Florence at the Sala Bianca of Palazzo Pitti: a refined, rich of history and heritage location that also represented a white canvas for the designers. Everybody remember Sala Bianca. Who does remember the location of the Gucci/Vuitton/Dior Cruise 2 years ago?
4 The Buzz. It’s a sort of Hemingway’s Fiesta. A bunch of press and influencers with a few celebrities travel the world to show the magnificent atmosphere of a fashion show. Wow! How can you create surprise and inspiration in these people after so many parties and shows and presentations and exclusive locations? Simple as it is: you cannot. This round was very clear. The images, the captions, the mix: “art, vodka and music” sounded very indefinite. Boring.
5 The Budgets. Big budgets. To promote always the same merchandise. Is it worthy? Or just an anesthetic?
Big collections, big communications budgets, top locations. Where is the product? Where is the creativity, the added value, the inspiration?
In a time where Brands are streamlining their retail network, optimizing the wholesale, trying to do their best in digital, the main risk is Boredom. The deja vu effect. The Emptiness of the message.
The risk is to alienate the loyal customers and followers in a quest for a continuous excitement, for the hype, for the remix of ideas due to a lack of creativity.
Are you ready now for Pitti Uomo?
Good Night and Good Luck, Fashion.